Undercover’s Jun Takahashi has allowed himself and his collections to be haunted by many things, but the one thing he always avoided was his own past. For fall 2020, Takahashi took a swan dive into his Japanese heritage through the lens of Akira Kurosawa’s 1957 film, Throne of Blood. The movie is a retelling of Macbeth set in feudal Japan. Takahashi first referenced the movie with a spectacular performance of its central themes via the male perspective for his fall 2020 menswear show. For his womenswear collection, which his attendants showed much more sedately in a Marais showroom, Takahashi took the Lady Macbeth character as a muse. The first dresses of the collection summed up the theme nicely: strict Renaissance shapes, all hips and panniers and underpinnings, but printed with roses and razor blades.
Comments
1 Responses to “Undercover FALL 2020 READY-TO-WEAR”
What’s your idea of a perfect day? Setting his Undercover show to the famous Lou Reed tune and printing perfect day across the hem of a coat or two, Jun Takahashi made us contemplate the question. His agenda for Fall, he said backstage, was “making relaxwear for all ages.” There were pajamas, sweats, cozy, cocooning knits, and terrific hybridized outerwear the multigenerational appeal of which he proved by presenting it on a range of women, from young models to the likes of Christina Kruse and Hannelore Knuts to the lined-of-face and silver-haired. It was an inspired casting, and Takahashi received enthusiastic, extended applause. We saw a lesson in it: Shows starring look-alike 17-year-olds are becoming passe.