Tsumori Chisato found so much inspiration during her trip to Cuba earlier this year that she stretched out her ideas over two collections. And to her credit, the ready-to-wear offering she presented today didn’t feel like déjà vu. Gone were the maracas that played a starring role in Resort: This lineup relied less on motifs and more on specialty fabrics. The collection progressed with the minimally hued—an ivory cotton checkered textile with shimmery organza that she animated with colorful ruffle outlines and an Indian silk dappled with jewel-toned tassels—to the riotous (sequin-covered prints of her flora-and-fauna paintings). A sheer sheath with gold animal embroidery in relief was the most beautiful, although it seemed the least connected to Cuba—at least at first glance. But clearly, Chisato had done her research. The dress was intended to conjure Josephine Baker, who spent five weeks in Havana on a residency at the American Theatre before returning there in 1966, upon receiving an invitation from Fidel Castro.
As a souvenir of the vintage cars, Chisato developed custom embroideries to embellish white poplin shirts. Gold headpieces aside, the looks tempered her artistic impulses with comfortable silhouettes, such as pantaloons and draped tank—or even the wedding-appropriate handkerchief dress with its crystal-covered underpinning. Chisato proudly revealed that she has collaborated with LeSportsac on a capsule collection of printed bags. Models were toting the backpack styles with their dresses and there’s no doubt the designer will be traveling with one on her next trip.
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