“It started with this idea of an amusement park that has been abandoned—there’s a spookiness,” said Marcelo Burlon of his Fall collection this evening. The resultant clothes had the sort of remiss appeal of a rave that might take place in such an inoperable venue—they were consciously grungy-glossy, with hits of neon, sequins, and consciously “wrong” acid-hue animal prints.
This lineup also felt more rounded-out than seasons past; for Spring, we noted that Burlon had depressurized his aesthetic. This inclination continues to serve him well. In the theme park after-hours dawn, carnival stripes banded to form a faux fur jacket; another long coat had the words “unlimited rides” on the back. Sparkly separates, leopard-print-inset anoraks, denim—particularly painted-over black pieces that were distressed away to reveal abrasions of fluorescence—and even a few tailored jackets further set the scene. Burlon mentioned that he’s just opened his sixth store; so far, they’re all in Asia, but his hope is for global freestanding outposts. As streetwear continues to diversify and dissolve, this broadening in offering should help him to achieve just that.
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