Massimo Giorgetti, like Karl Lagerfeld, prefers not to dwell on the past. “I don’t like vintage; I like the future,” he said backstage. This poses something of a dilemma for him. He is, after all, the creative director of Emilio Pucci, a brand that’s synonymous with the Italian jet set of the 1960s. In his first two seasons at the heritage label, his natural inclination led him quite far from the house codes. But for Spring, he played against type and did a deep dive into the archive. The prints he returned with were more or less recognizable as Pucci. In an effort to modernize them, he supersized one (a labyrinth design) and abstracted another (the black-and-white zebra motif). A graphic squiggle was closest of the three to the Pucci original, and probably the best. Icons become icons for a reason.
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